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Build your own Trailer anyone?
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Build your own Trailer anyone?

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From 23 years of Flying Fifteen trailers

In the drawings (full sized image attached to this item, see below) you'll see you've got the basic requirements with one or two horrors to avoid. The design was used for the trolleys made for the overseas boats at the 50th anniversary by Keels on Wheels. It's not possible to fit covers for travelling with the arrangements shown, but I've hardly been caused to think they are necessary. It's about washing the lashings occasionally versus servicing buffer material. Disaster occurred only once after handing over the driving to someone new to towing keeping in the inner lane, unfortunately at the same speed as a wagon in the next lane with a sideways discharging exhaust. A lot of washing!

Of the ways other than flat rope lashings for preventing damage by movement, the only buffering the keel and stem may not be able to charge through and then start being damaged is the padded fibreglass apron moulded around the front of the keel. Of all the stuff you can pad the top of the keel against lashings pressure, nothing is easier or better than 6” of slit high pressure hose.

The distance between the wheel axle's crossbar and the ball catch has to be a minimum of 135” to allow the front of the keel to sit on the axle bar and not be too light on the ball catch. 22 kg is about right. Also, with no weight of dire consequence on the forefoot post, extra ironworks forward are detrimental because the keel then becomes forced to start disappearing in to the gap between the cross bars. So some people simply don't fit the rear one and so force landing on the one crossbar available. This is all drilling down into the technicalities of getting the best out of a boat which we'd die for. Good heavy duty welding = simplicity and with single crossbar you need single backbone to maintain a low slipped disc tendency. (I got mine through simply sliding heavy clubhouse chairs).

Yes, raising the rear bar to eliminate the wooden chock illustrated looks showroom, but prevents under keel touch ups. When launching it is good practice if you have time, to stop when the yellow tape on the side supports are just about immersed so as to judge the height to set the jockey wheel to when hauling out for contact with the keel landing and forefoot crutch to be simply simultaneous. Then for the boat to stick on, a haul out distance of a foot is the most needed, gripping head rope and trailer rope together initially only. If the slipway angle then reduces there's no problem, the boat wants to sprint forward a la fuel saving on the road. If it steepens, like at Hayling Island, please don't be wearing an auto inflate life jacket when stooping to lower the backbone angle! Another fun place they'll inflate in is a car full of damp gear.

There is no mighty hold down strap across the body of the boat because enough gravity is provided without adding more and making the bottom go concave. Hardwood + carpet is best for the keel landing. Anything else soon pulverises by softness and marine plywood veneers break up. My boat's mahogany landing from new in 1970 is still good. English oak is easily available.


Photo of trolley shows alternative to the usual and best twin backbone made from 50mm sq. steel with some channel bar that was lying around.

Converts to road trailer by fitting suspension units.

Peter Clark 2013

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